Building a Skincare Routine for Melasma: A Step-by-Step Guide

Building a Skincare Routine for Melasma: A Step-by-Step Guide

What Makes Melasma Different from Regular Dark Spots?

Melasma is a chronic form of hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical, brownish-grey patches — most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin. Unlike post-acne marks or sun spots, melasma is driven by a combination of hormonal triggers (oestrogen, progesterone), UV exposure, and heat.

This makes it more stubborn and more likely to recur. A one-ingredient approach rarely works — melasma responds best to a multi-pronged routine that addresses exfoliation, melanin inhibition, and UV protection simultaneously.

The Golden Rules for a Melasma Routine

  • Consistency over intensity — Melasma takes 3–6 months of consistent treatment to show significant improvement. Don't switch products every few weeks.
  • SPF is treatment, not optional — UV and visible light both trigger melasma. SPF 50 every morning, reapplied every 2 hours if outdoors.
  • Avoid heat — Hot showers, steam rooms, and even cooking over a hot stove can worsen melasma.
  • Introduce actives slowly — Irritation can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, making melasma worse.

Your AM Routine for Melasma

  1. Gentle cleanser — Use a mild, non-stripping face wash. Avoid anything with harsh sulphates.
  2. Vitamin C serum (optional) — A stable Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid or ascorbyl glucoside) in the morning provides antioxidant protection and mild brightening.
  3. Moisturiser — Keep the skin barrier healthy. A compromised barrier makes melasma harder to treat.
  4. SPF 50 sunscreen — non-negotiable — Apply generously as the last step. Our 12% Glycolic Acid Cream Gel + SPF 50 Combo includes a broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen designed to pair with your treatment.

Your PM Routine for Melasma

  1. Double cleanse — Oil cleanser first to remove sunscreen, then a gentle face wash.
  2. Exfoliating treatment (3–5x per week) — Apply your glycolic acid or kojic acid treatment. Start with every other night for the first 2–3 weeks.
  3. Moisturiser — Always follow actives with a good moisturiser to prevent dryness and barrier damage.

What to Avoid

  • Mixing multiple actives on the same night — Don't layer glycolic acid with retinol or benzoyl peroxide until your skin is fully adjusted.
  • Over-exfoliating — More is not better with melasma. Irritation triggers more pigmentation.
  • Skipping SPF even on cloudy days — UV penetrates clouds. Visible light (from screens and indoor lighting) can also worsen melasma.
  • Picking or rubbing — Physical trauma to the skin worsens pigmentation.

Realistic Timeline: What to Expect

  • Weeks 1–2: Skin adjusts to actives. You may notice mild dryness or flaking — this is normal.
  • Weeks 3–6: Texture improves. Some lightening of superficial pigmentation begins.
  • Months 2–3: Visible reduction in melasma patches with consistent use.
  • Months 4–6: Significant improvement. Maintenance routine begins.

Maintenance: Keeping Melasma at Bay

Once melasma improves, it can return — especially with sun exposure or hormonal changes. Maintenance means continuing SPF daily, using your brightening treatment 2–3x per week, and restarting a full routine at the first sign of recurrence.

Melasma is a marathon, not a sprint — but with the right routine and the right ingredients, it is very manageable.

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